Just this morning I arrived back in Melbourne after ten days (was it ten? Maybe it was nine. Or eleven? Who knows!) in Tasmania. That’s why the blog has been so quiet. And my Twitter, and Facebook. It’s not often that a blogger gets to take a break – and I actually had no intention of stopping – but sometimes the Universe has other plans and almost as soon as I left the mainland, my ability to get a decent internet connection left too and my break officially began.
After spending seventeen days in Paris earlier this year, Tassie was definitely a trip more inspired by my partners desire to escape the hustle and bustle of the city and wind down in a place quite removed from our daily lives. As much as I think I don’t work that hard* (I very much adhere to the ‘do something you love and you’ll never work another day in your life’ philosophy), its amazing how once you step away from it all, what a difference can be made.
We headed to Tassie via the Spirit of Tasmania (adults at kids prices!!) and booked a cabin. The food on the boat isn’t much to write to home about but the accommodations are comfortable and almost as soon as you fall asleep (just ignore the drunk feeling you’ll experience from the rocking of the boat), you wake up on the other side of Bass Strait, with your car.
Guide Falls, Burnie Tasmania
Our first few days were spent in the North West region of Tasmania, visiting Burnie, La Trobe and Launceston. We stayed in an Airbnb, hosted by the lovely Kit, and couldn’t have asked for better accommodations and welcome. In Ulverstone, we found a great smallgoods supplier, Kings Feast, whose gourmet (and gluten free!) sausages were phenomenal. Don’t even get me started on the quality of the ham and bacon. The 41 degrees South Salmon and Ginseng Farm was also a highlight.
While we had a fair bit of rain in the first few days, our day of driving from the top of Tassie to the bottom was clear and sunny. The reputation of art gallery MONA had everyone telling us it was THE place to go in Hobart, so that was first stop on the list. Gorgeous buildings house this eccentric space and while I wasn’t as shocked as I thought I would be, the gallery was still amazing and a definite highlight of Hobart.
The Rydges Hobart was our hotel for the night, and we visited Tavern 42 South for a divine dinner just off Salamanca Square. A drive around Hobart uncovered some lovely buildings and architecture, before our big day driving sent us to an early bed.
Dinner at Tavern 42: Salmon, Broccoli, Stickydate Pudding and breakfast at Retro (all Salamanca Square, Hobart)
On Thursday we travelled further south, taking the ferry to Bruny Island: an island, off an island, off an island, at the edge of the world (according to the locals). Inspired to visit Bruny Island after watching endless episodes of Gourmet Farmer, this island is home to less than 600 people and enjoys spectacular views, landscapes and tranquility.
Daniel Bay, Bruny Island (from our lounge room window)
A keen fisherman, my partner was out finding the best spots mere minutes after our arrival at Pat and Johns, another winning Airbnb find. Armed with local knowledge, it wasn’t long before the fish were biting. Day 2 on Bruny Island saw us out on Daniels Bay fishing for flathead (Amusing sidenote: I was also on said boat, in the rain, with my umbrella up Queen of Sherba style) while Day 3 produced some of the most amazing squid I’ve ever eaten. Perhaps what they say about it tasting better when you catch it yourself is true.
Cloudy Bay, Bruny Island
The attractions of Bruny Island include Bruny Island Cheese – the ‘Nanna’ is my new favourite and certainly gives the French stuff a run for its money! Get Shucked is the place to be for Oysters and the Bruny Island Winery is worth a visit for the award winning Pinot Noir (and the menu looked brilliant). Unfortunately for us, many of the other tourist spots (the smoke house, fudge shop and cherry farm) were closed (but all the more reason to return I suspect!).
Our finals days took us back through the centre of Tasmania to Tarraleah, where the hydroelectric plant sits bang in the middle of the mountains. The pipes are a sight to behold but so too is the estate of Tarraleah Lodge, a gorgeous place to stay in Winter (and I suspect Summer too).
View from the clifftop hottub, Tarraleah Lodge
Complete with clifftop hottub, the lodge was one of the most spectacular places I have ever had the privilege of staying – and the fact that we were the only ones booked in on this particular evening made it all the more magical. The food here at the Highlander Arms was not to
be dismissed, and I feel there is no question we’ll be back here for flyfishing at some point.
By the time we arrived back at the Spirit of Tasmania for our return journey, I wasn’t sure whether I felt exhausted, or relaxed to the point of no return. The thought of getting back into it today was exciting, but also a little overwhelming with the list of how much I hadn’t gotten done in the past two weeks.
Sarah the fisher-woman!
Everyone who said ten days in Tassie would be too long was wrong – we could easily have spent more time there. There is a lot to see, do and experience – I guess it’s all about what you want to get out of your trip. I certainly learnt a lot (not the least of which is how to cook flathead and calamari) and look forward to our next jaunt across Bass Strait – perhaps with a slightly warmer season in mind.
*Mum, this is not an opportunity to agree with me 🙂
